What is Nitrous Oxide System or NOS and How Does It Make The Car Go So Fast?

If you've watched the new 'Fast & Furious' movie maybe you've noticed that just like the first one 'The Fast and the Furious' you keep seeing those blue NOS bottles. So what is Nitrous Oxide or NOS and how does it make the car go so fast?


What is Nitrous? Simply put, Nitrous (N2O) creates large amounts of horsepower by creating more oxygen in the engines combustion chamber while simultaneously introducing additional fuel. The added oxygen allows the additional fuel to burn which creates increased horsepower for short bursts of torque and speed.

In applications for vehicle racing, nitrous oxide (often referred to as just "nitrous") allows the engine to burn more fuel by providing more oxygen than air alone, resulting in a more powerful combustion. The gas itself is not flammable at a low pressure/temperature, but it delivers more oxygen than atmospheric air by breaking down at elevated temperatures. Therefore, it is often mixed with another fuel that is easier to deflagrate.
Nitrous oxide is stored as a compressed liquid; the evaporation and expansion of liquid nitrous oxide in the intake manifold causes a large drop in intake charge temperature, resulting in a denser charge, further allowing more air/fuel mixture to enter the cylinder. Nitrous oxide is sometimes injected into (or prior to) the intake manifold, whereas other systems directly inject right before the cylinder (direct port injection) to increase power.

The technique was used during World War II by Luftwaffe aircraft with the GM-1 system to boost the power output of aircraft engines. Originally meant to provide the Luftwaffe standard aircraft with superior high-altitude performance, technological considerations limited its use to extremely high altitudes. Accordingly, it was only used by specialized planes like high-altitude reconnaissance aircraft, high-speed bombers, and high-altitude interceptor aircraft.

One of the major problems of using nitrous oxide in a reciprocating engine is that it can produce enough power to damage or destroy the engine. Very large power increases are possible, and if the mechanical structure of the engine is not properly reinforced, the engine may be severely damaged or destroyed during this kind of operation. It is very important with nitrous oxide augmentation of internal combustion engines to maintain proper operating temperatures and fuel levels to prevent "preignition", or "detonation" (sometimes referred to as "knock"). Most problems that are associated with nitrous do not come from mechanical failure due to the power increases. Since nitrous allows a much denser charge into the cylinder it dramatically increases cylinder pressures. The increased pressure and temperature can cause problems such as melting the piston or valves. It may also crack or warp the piston or head and cause preignition due to uneven heating.

Automotive-grade liquid nitrous oxide differs slightly from medical-grade nitrous oxide. A small amount of sulfur dioxide (SO2) is added to prevent substance abuse.[29] Multiple washes through a base (such as sodium hydroxide) can remove this, decreasing the corrosive properties observed when SO2 is further oxidized during combustion into sulfuric acid, making emissions cleaner

Watch this interactive video and learn more than you ever thought you'd know about Nitrous Oxide.


Source: en.wikipedia.org + boxwrench.net

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Swimming With 9 Amphibious Vehicles

Credit World War II for making cars that can swim. And though the largest numbers of amphibian passenger cars were made way back in the 1960s, the prospect of a car that can navigate waterways like a boat continues to attract inventors.

Amphicar

Amphicar
Even though less than 5000 German-designed Amphicars were built, you can still see them. Most came to America and many are still in use.

The Amphicar was built for five years starting in 1961; it was a compact convertible with a steel unibody and double seals on the doors. Using a 1.2-liter four-cylinder Triumph engine mounted in the rear, it drove the rear wheels through a Porsche transaxle. A transfer case switched power to two 12-inch propellers when you entered the water. With 11 inches of ground clearance, entering a lake or river was easy, and the Amphicar would cruise at 8 knots. The front wheels served as rudders. Top speed on the highway for the 43-hp car was 70 mph.

To publicize the car, the company once drove it across the English Channel. Legend has it that President Lyndon Johnson liked to terrify joyriding houseguests by pretending that his car's brakes had broken and driving the Amphicar into a lake.

Gibbs Aquada

Gibbs Aquada
Alan Gibbs of New Zealand commissioned British automaker Lotus in 1996 to undertake an engineering viability study for an amphibious car. Neil Jenkins, who helped build the Jaguar XJ220, contributed to the clever frame and body/hull design; he now runs Gibbs Sports Amphibians, which announced this year it is beginning to work on producing the Aquada.

The Gibbs will come with hydraulically retractable wheels on struts. A single 165-hp 2.5-liter Rover four-cylinder engine will power the rear wheels and also a jet pump drive for marine travel. That engine will get the 4000-pound plastic-hull aluminum-framed Aquada to 100 mph on land and 30 mph in the water. A prototype crossed the English Channel in 40 minutes in 2004.

VW Schwimmwagen

VW Schwimmwagen
VW Beetle creator Ferdinand Porsche produced the four-wheel-drive Kübelwagen for the German Army in WWII. He then made an amphibious version of it in 1941, followed by a smaller version of the first amphibious car called the Schwimmwagen. It was powered by a 1.2-liter air-cooled flat four, which also drove a single propeller. The amphibious car used the front wheels as rudders when in the water. On land, the propeller would swing up, disengaging it from the engine. The Schwimmwagen was heavy and slow but had good traction off-road.

U.S. Army DUKW

U.S. Army DUKW
GM built the DUKW, called Duck when it was produced, for the U.S. military in 1942. It was adapted from a troop-carrier truck. The awkward name came from GM's official designations: D meant the 1942 model year, U stood for utility, K was GM's code for front-drive, and W was the code for two rear axles.

The DUKW's capacity was 5000 pounds or 25 soldiers. It'd do 50 mph on land or 5 mpg in the water. George Patton made the vehicle famous by using 1000 DUKWs to land in Sicily in 1943; 2000 participated in the D-Day landing in France in 1944.

In sum, GM built 21,000 Ducks. Today the amphibious cars are mostly seen giving aquatic tours. Milwaukeean Melvin H. Flath bought a surplus DUKW and charged 50 cents for tours in 1946; now tour companies in various cities use a couple hundred of the vehicles.

Terra Wind Motorhome

Terra Wind Motorhome
In September 2004, commercial pilot John Giljam built an amphibious motor home that cost $1.2 million and was 42 feet long. Powered by a rear-mounted 330-hp diesel engine, the all-aluminum bodied home on wheels uses two propellers and two rudders when it's floating. It has two inflatable pontoons on its sides for stability but can travel on water without them. Giljam now builds other amphibious machines through a company called Cool Amphibious Manufacturers International, which also builds DUKW-type vehicles for tour companies.

Dobbertin Surface Orbiter

Dobbertin Surface Orbiter
Using a double-wall stainless-steel milk tank from the back of a truck, Rick Dobbertin from Cazenovia, N.Y., built an amphibious truck that he drove from Florida to South America via the Gulf of Mexico, and back to the U.S. on land in 1995. It took him four and a half years to build the craft, which is 32 feet long, 7.5 feet wide, 10 feet high, and weighs 9 tons fully loaded. Its GM diesel V-8 makes 250 hp and powers all six wheels. The "surface orbiter" has traveled 33,000 miles on land, 3,000 in the sea, and was sold in a 1999 divorce auction for $200,000.

Rinspeed Splash

Rinspeed Splash
Well-known Swiss sportscar tuning firm Rinspeed built an amphibious car in 2003 that can go 120 mph on land and 45 knots on water. Under 30 knots, the Rinspeed can cruise in water like a conventional boat. Above 30 knots, fold-down hydrofoils raise the car's a lightweight carbon composite body shell 12 feet above the water. A single propeller lowers into water with the foils, and the wheels can lift out of the water.

Power comes from a 140-hp two-cylinder 750-cc engine running on natural gas. The vehicle's total weight is just 1800 pounds.

SeaRoader

SeaRoader
Englishman Mike Ryan designed and built his first Land Rover-based SeaRoader amphibian in 30 days back in the 1980s. He's built amphibious motorcycles, a Lamborghini-bodied amphibian, and his shop engineered the three floating cars featured on Top Gear in 2006.

The SeaRoader is Ryan's first production amphibian, made with steel body panels. It sells for $42,000. The on-road propulsion comes from the Land Rover's original 1.7-liter turbodiesel engine. In the water, a separate marine engine and output jet in the back can push the SeaRoader to 6 mph.

U.S. Army LARC

U.S. Army LARC
In 1952, the massive Lighter Amphibious Resupply Cargo amphibious vehicle, capable of carrying a 60-ton tank, made its maiden voyage in Washington state. Gross weight fully loaded: 319,000 pounds. One GMC 265-hp marine diesel engine powered each of the LARC-60's nine-and-a-half foot tall Firestone tires. The same four engines were used to drive two propellers in the rear via a transfer transmission. The 17-foot tall, 63-foot long LARC can travel at 20 mph on land and 7 mph in the water.
Two smaller versions were also produced—one that could carry 5 tons and another that could carry 15 tons.


Source: popularmechanics.com

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Flood Driving Safety Tips

Autogearhead: Flooded roadSome areas are more prone to flooding than others. This problem is set to increase in the UK with the onset of global warming.
Floods can occur when rivers burst their banks, after a period of heavy rainfall. Large volumes of water can cause flash-floods, or floods in urban areas where the sewers and drains can't cope and there is nowhere for the water to soak away.
As with all driving emergencies prevention is better than cure; in the case of flooding this means watching the weather forecasts before you set out on a journey, if flooding is widespread you might be better off cancelling trips that are not absolutely necessary.

If you are in a flood affected area consider moving your car to a place of safety when you first hear the warnings, but also be aware that if flooding has started moving your vehicle could pose a serious risk - never underestimate the dangers of flood water.

Eight things to think about when driving through floods.

1. Flash floods can come rapidly and unexpectedly. In the UK they are usually cause when rivers break their banks.
2. You may not have warning that a flash flood is approaching.
3.  Never attempt to drive through a flood that you couldn't walk through and be aware that water hides dips in the road. Worse still, there may be no road at all under the water. Flooding can wash away the entire road surface and a significant amount of ground beneath.
4. Slow down into waterJust six inches of water will reach the bottom of most passenger cars; this depth can cause loss of control or possible stalling as water is sucked into the exhaust or washes into the air intake.
5. If negotiating a flooded section of road, drive in the middle where the water will be at its shallowest.
6. Consider other drivers - pass through flooded sections one car at a time, don't drive through water against approaching vehicles.
7. Many cars will start to float in as little as one foot of water - this can be extremely dangerous because as the wheels lose grip, you lose control.
8. Two feet of flowing water can sweep away most vehicles — including large four-wheel drive cars. Don't try driving through fast-moving water, for example approaching a flooded bridge – your car could easily be swept away.

Negotiating floods

Driving at speed into water that is more than about 15 centimetres deep can have dramatic effects - it could almost feel like driving into a brick wall with loss of control. This is why it's especially important to watch your speed on roads where there might be unexpected patches of water (perhaps hidden by a bend or a dip in the road).

I caught the cars on the right on camera driving into about six centimetres of standing water at around 25mph - an instant after this picture was taken the red car lost control, luckily an accident was avoided. perhaps next time the driver might not be so lucky. In 15 minutes I saw several near misses at the same spot.

Use a low gearIf you intend to drive through a flooded section of road, your first task is to check the depth of the water. In normal vehicles you should never attempt to drive through water that is more than about 25 centimetres deep (or up to the centre of your wheels).

It's also worth checking where the air intake is on your engine. If water is sucked into the engine it will stall, but worse than this, it can cause severe damage that will require the engine to be stripped down in order to bring it back to life. Do not try to restart an engine that has sucked in water - the plugs or injectors should first be removed to allow the water to be expelled.

Some four-wheel-drive vehicles are equipped with high level air intakes allowing them to be driven through water several feet deep, however, you can say goodbye to your deep pile carpet and Gucci Sneakers if you attempt this! And as mentioned above - even 4x4 vehicles can be washed away in flowing water. If the water is fast-moving - even 30 centimetres depth of fast-moving water could wash your car off the road.

Where possible flooded roads are best negotiated by one vehicle at a time. wait for approaching vehicles to clear the water before you start to drive through.

Using first or second gear (L or 1 in an automatic) drive slowly to avoid creating a large 'bow wave' (a small wave can be helpful but too much and the water can wash back into the engine). Slipping the clutch and revving the engine will also help to keep the exhaust clear and keep the engine running if water splashes onto the electrics. In an automatic keep your foot on the gas in the lowest held gear and use the brake to control your speed (and hope for the best!).

Try your brakesIn some cases a stalled engine can result in water being sucked back through the exhaust into the cylinders - this can cause extensive and expensive damage. Do not change gear because this can also cause water to be sucked back through the exhaust (due to the change in engine speed and manifold depression).

Another potential cause of damage in floods is a cracked catalytic converter ('cat'). The 'cat' is part of the exhaust system and works at high temperatures; if it comes into contact with very cold water there is a possibility that the rapid contraction of the metal could crack the welded sides - OK if you have plenty of money to replace it!

If your wheels start to lose grip partway through a flooded section it could be that the car is trying to float. To counter this, open a door and allow some water into the car, this will weigh it down, enabling the tyres to grip again - it's probably best to get a passenger to do this so that you can continue revving your engine and slipping the clutch.

After driving through a flooded section of road or a ford across a river, test your brakes (whilst still driving slowly) and be prepared to drive them off by touching the brake pedal very lightly with your left foot (practice this on an empty stretch of road next time you go out driving to discover what very lightly means!).

If your car has been abandoned and has stood in deep water for a long period (an hour or more) it's worth getting a mechanic to look at it before you try and start it. Alternatively, if you know a little about engines and have the appropriate tools, remove the spark plugs (or injectors) and turn the engine over to expel any water from the cylinders before trying to start the engine.

Stay calm - stay safe!

Source: www.smartdriving.co.uk

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Ford Transit to Get EcoBoost V-6 in 2013

Autogearhead: In December, it became official: Ford would replace the E-Series with a version of its new generation global Transit van under Ford's "One Ford" program. Details were scarce at the time, but Ford is finally starting to dish about the new Transit, and just announced that the van will receive Ford's 3.5-liter twin-turbo EcoBoost V-6 found under the hood of numerous Blue Oval offerings.

The announcement was made at the National Truck Equipment Association Work Truck show in Indianapolis. Ford divulged just one specific detail on the Transit EcoBoost: It will be a rear-drive model. We don't yet know if all-wheel drive will be an option.

We do know that the U.S.-spec Transit is likely to be called the T-Series. It will be built at Ford's Kansas City Assembly Plant in Missouri, with production starting later this year. Though we don't know the transmission options or power specs for the Transit's EcoBoost, it is unlikely to deviate much from the F-150's, which has become a popular option for Ford truck buyers.

In the F-150, the engine is paired to a six-speed automatic good for 365 hp and 420 lb-ft of torque. Exterior styling will bear elements of Ford's "kinetic design" language, and shouldn't be wildly different from that of the Ford Tourneo Custom Concept Ford is unveiling at the 2012 Geneva Motor Show.

Source: automobilemag.com



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Are hybrid cars slower than regular cars?

Do hybrid cars sacrifice speed for better fuel-efficiency?

AutoGearhead: In this article, John Fuller has explaination, are hybrid cars slower than regular cars? Part of America's love affair with cars is the desire for speed. Sure, we're attached to automobiles for several other reasons they get us comfortably from one point to the next, and we're even willing to sit through grueling traffic jams in them just to get to work or to the grocery store. But the rumble of the engine, the whine of the gears shifting upwards and the wind flowing through an open window is a common, iconic image. It's probably no coincidence that lots of American road movies include montages that attempt to convey that sort of feeling.

The rising popularity of hybrid cars within the auto industry, however, is changing that familiar perception. For one, most fuel-efficient vehicles don't necessarily rumble. In fact, most employ a function that allows the gasoline engine to stop running while sitting in traffic, coasting or even when the car is driving at lower speeds. Instead, a hybrid vehicle uses a quieter electric motor to conserve fuel and produce fewer emissions.

But despite being known for having good fuel efficiency and promoting eco-friendly driving, some have criticized hybrid vehicles for a variety of reasons. Some have questioned, for instance, the reliability of hybrid battery packs, claiming that they tend to be faulty and that they're expensive to replace. This is largely untrue, and nearly every car company producing a hybrid vehicle guarantees their battery pack for the life of the car.

Other critics, at least those that have grown accustomed to faster speeds associated with modern gasoline-powered cars, have noted that hybrid cars are typically slower than regular automobiles. The claim is that by focusing on fuel-efficiency and lower emissions, hybrid cars are sacrificing higher speeds and more power, slowing down their performance. Because this doesn't gel with the typical image of the fast American car, some drivers are a little turned off by this.

So, are hybrid cars really slower than regular cars? Why is this? And is that really the point for someone concerned about green driving?

While hybrids can reach relatively high speeds,
it's good acceleration that some models lack.

Hybrid Engine Performance

When most people buy a hybrid car, they usually do so with the understanding that there's going to be some kind of compromise between power and eco-friendly driving. The reason hybrid vehicles have become such a buzz topic and a go-to model for the auto industry recently is because of that compromise. As concerns increase over global warming, caused in part by carbon emissions resulting from vehicle fuel consumption, the power provided by a gasoline engine coupled with the fuel-saving qualities of an electric motor seem like the best possible combination.

But are fuel-efficient vehicles significantly slower than regular cars? To see if hybrid cars crawl on the road rather than zip along, we have to look into hybrid engine performance. Generally speaking, the engine in a hybrid car is almost always smaller than the engine in a comparable non-hybrid car. Smaller engines usually equal less horsepower and less torque. To get good fuel efficiency, hybrids operate from a standing start using only the electric motor, which typically provides much less horsepower and torque than a gasoline-powered engine. These two systems work together, however, to ensure hybrids can save fuel in the city and drive at faster speeds on the highway or even climb steep hills.

In short, hybrid cars won't be maxing out at 45 miles per hour (72 kilometers per hour) on the highway, endangering -- or at the very least, angering other drivers on the road, but they won't go quite as fast as most regular cars, either. While many all-electric vehicles have significantly lower top speeds and some are even a little bit unstable on the highway, hybrid cars get enough power from the gasoline engine to go as fast as 100 miles per hour (161 kilometers per hour). The real matter for hybrids is in acceleration. Since the smaller electric motors that most automakers use don't produce much horsepower, a relatively fast hybrid car can go from zero to 60 miles per hour (97 kilometers per hour) in about six seconds, while a more typical hybrid car's zero to 60 time hovers around the 10 second mark. For some people, that's a little too slow.

How are the carmakers responding? Well, some are developing faster hybrid cars with larger, V-6 engines and more powerful electric motors. Hybrid technology developer Frazer-Nash Research and Italian design firm Italdesign Giugiaro, for instance, worked together to build the Namir, a concept plug-in hybrid that can go from zero to 62 miles per hour (100 kilometers per hour) in 3.5 seconds and has a top speed of 187 miles per hour (301 kilometers per hour). The Namir's range is also 1,200 miles (1,931 kilometers), so anyone with the need for speed and an itch for green driving should look toward Italy. (John Fuller)

Sources:

• Aziz, Nick. "Frazer-Nash Namir by Giugiaro: World's fastest plug-in hybrid." LeftLaneNews.com. March 3, 2009. (April 27, 2009)
• Siler, Wes. "2010 Mercedes ML450 Hybrid: V8 Power With V6 Fuel Economy." Jalopnik.com. April 8, 2009. (April 27, 2009)
• Wald, Matthew L. "Hybrid Cars Burning Gas in the Drive for Power." The New York Times. July 17, 2005. (April 27, 2009

This video below, will describe about a Blue TEC hybrid features, an additional magneto-electric motor and a 7G-TRONIC seven-speed automatic transmission specially configured for the hybrid module, the necessary operating and control electronics, the transformer and a high-voltage lithium-ion battery.

During braking the electric motor acts as a generator and is able to recover kinetic energy by a process known as recuperation. During this process the electric motor works together seamlessly with the engine brake of the internal combustion engine and the conventional wheel brakes. The recuperated energy is stored by a compact but efficient lithium-ion battery in the engine compartment and retrieved when required. Major advantages over conventional nickel/metal hydride batteries include a higher energy density and greater electrical efficiency combined with more compact dimensions and a low battery weight. Thanks to space-saving installation in the engine compartment, the trunk capacity and generous interior dimensions remain unchanged. The hybrid module also has a convenient start-stop function.

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Understanding Crash Test

Ford Fusion Crash Test

AutoGearhead: You know why cars have been getting safer? Its because of a well-established testing program. In this article, you'll know about automotive crash testing. You'll be amazed at how much thought and preparation goes into making sure that safe cars are on the roads. A crash test is a form of destructive testing usually performed in order to ensure safe design standards in crashworthiness and crash compatibility for various modes of transportation or related systems and components.


Types of Crash Test

• Frontal-impact tests: which is what most people initially think of when asked about a crash test. These are usually impacts upon a solid concrete wall at a specified speed, but can also be vehicle-vehicle tests. SUVs have been singled out in these tests for a while, due to the high ride-height that they often have.
• Offset tests: in which only part of the front of the car impacts with a barrier (vehicle). These are important, as impact forces (approximately) remain the same as with a frontal impact test, but a smaller fraction of the car is required to absorb all of the force. These tests are often realized by cars turning into oncoming traffic. This type of testing is done by the Insurance Institute for Highway Safety (IIHS), EuroNCAP and Australasian New Car Assessment Program (ANCAP).
• Side-impact tests: these forms of accidents have a very significant likelihood of fatality, as cars do not have a significant crumple zone to absorb the impact forces before an occupant is injured.
• Roll-over tests: which tests a car's ability (specifically the pillars holding the roof) to support itself in a dynamic impact. More recently dynamic rollover tests have been proposed as opposed to static crush testing.
• Roadside hardware crash tests: are used to ensure crash barriers and crash cushions will protect vehicle occupants from roadside hazards, and also to ensure that guard rails, sign posts, light poles and similar appurtenances do not pose an undue hazard to vehicle occupants.
• Old versus new: Often an old and big car against a small and new car, or two different generations of the same car model. These tests are performed to show the advancements in crashworthiness.
• Computer model: Because of the cost of full-scale crash tests, engineers often run many simulated crash tests using computer models to refine their vehicle or barrier designs before conducting live tests.

Crash Test Major providers

1. National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) in the United States, specifically the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard (FMVSS) and New Car Assessment Program (NCAP)
2. European New Car Assessment Programme (Euro NCAP)
3. Insurance Institute for Highway Safety (IIHS) in the United States
4. Australasian New Car Assessment Program (ANCAP)
5. Allgemeiner Deutscher Automobil-Club (ADAC) in Germany
6. Japan New Car Assessment Program (JNCAP)
7. China New Car Assessment Program (C-NCAP)

Reference: en.wikipedia.com

Euro NCAP, Peugeot 3008 Crash Test: Frontal Impact takes place at 64 Km/h, 40% of the width of the car striking a deformable barrier. In the side impact, a mobile deformable barrier impacts the driver's door at 50 km/h. In the pole test, the car tested is propelled sideways at 29km/h into a rigid pole.

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Understanding Oversteer.

Oversteer: the car makes the turn too sharp and gets into a spin.

Auto Gearhead: In previous article we have talk about understeer, in  this articel we gonna talk more about understeer. Understeer and oversteer are vehicle dynamics terms used to describe the sensitivity of a vehicle to steering. Simply put, oversteer is what occurs when a car turns (steers) by more than (over) the amount commanded by the driver. Automotive engineers define understeer and oversteer based on changes in steering angle associated with changes in lateral acceleration over a sequence of steady-state circular turning tests.



An article from drivingfast.net says, when you reach the limits of grip on a corner, two scenarios can result known as understeer or oversteer. Oversteer, like understeer, results from the car reaching the limits of traction on a corner. In this case, the rear tyres reach the limit of adhesion before the front. This leads to 'the back coming out'. The good thing about oversteer is that you normally go through the hedge backwards, thus preventing expensive repairs to the front of your vehicle. If you manage to performed sustained, controlled oversteer this is know as drifting.

Symptoms of oversteer It's unlikely you'll ever experience oversteer unless you're driving a car near the limits of grip. You can recognise oversteer if, the rear of the vehicle becomes unstable and 'light' due to lack of grip and the car starts to rotate so the driver is facing towards the inside of the corner

There are four major active causes of oversteer, but what you're likely to encounter depends on the car being driven, causes include:

1. Entering the corner too fast.
2. Accelerating into the corner, too early or too aggressively.
3. Braking into the corner or mid corner.
4. Lifting off the throttle mid-corner. This scenario is also known as:

• lift-off oversteer
• snap-oversteer
• trailing-throttle oversteer
• throttle off oversteer
• lift-throttle oversteer
• lift-off oversteer

Lift-off oversteer is a phenomenon which can occur when reducing the throttle mid corner. This will only happen when driving close to the limit so only experiment when on the track. Sporty front wheel drive drive cars can be especially prone to this due to the heavy front end and light rear. Reducing the throttle input results in a forward weight transfer, which increases the grip at the front tyres, but reduces levels at the rear. If this is performed during cornering, the combination of the heavy front end and the reduction of grip can cause the rear wheels to break traction and start to slide towards the outside of the corner.

Whatever the cause of oversteer it is important to keep the front wheels pointing in the direction you're hoping to go. If you fail to do this, the most likely result is a spin. This technique is known as counter-steering or applying opposite lock. You should apply enough steering lock to point the wheels in the direction of the slide as shown below. Too little and you're likely to spin as the back continues to come round, too much and the car will rapidly over-correct, often resulting in a spin in the opposite direction. The skill can only be mastered with plenty of practice and should become instinct if you're planning to drive fast on a track.

Applying corrective steering needs to be done rapidly to catch the back of the car before it slides to a point which may be difficult to control. Once the slide has been controlled and the back starts to fall back in line, it's also important to get the steering correction off quickly too, otherwise you might find your self with oversteer in the opposite direction due to the resulting pendulum effect.(*)

A video with Martin Brundle describing Oversteer and Understeer.

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Understanding Understeer.

Understeer: The car does not turn enough and leaves the road.

Auto Gearhead: Understeer is vehicle dynamics terms used to describe the sensitivity of a vehicle to steering. Understeer is what occurs when a car steers less than, or 'under' the amount commanded by the driver.
Automotive engineers define understeer based on changes in steering angle associated with changes in lateral acceleration over a sequence of steady-state circular turning tests. Understeer occurs when traction is lost at the front wheels while cornering, forcing you wide on a bend despite applying the correct steering angle.

Avoiding understeer.
The potential harm of understeer is the car out off the road. But fortunately, this emergency situation is fairly easy to overcome. The point is to slow the vehicle so that traction can be returned.
To avoiding understeer you can drive as smooth as you can, don't enter corners flat out, and accelerate as you exit, do not add a round steering wheel or brake, reduce round the steering wheel until the tire gripping again. The las is do not brake in a corner. The only exception to this is if you are using trail braking (late braking). In some situations on the track, it may be possible to get a better time by leaving your braking to the very last minute, forcing you to maintain braking into the turn. If this is the case, ensure most of the braking effort has been carried out in a straight line, and progressively release the brakes as you approach the apex. The resulting forward weight transfer can reduce understeer and improve 'turn in', however, it can also make the car more prone to oversteer. This is an advanced technique and should only be used once you are very confident with your car, the track and the conditions.

Simple modifications to make a car less prone to understeer.
If you have a track car and find understeer a problem, you can complete some relatively easy modifications which can make the handling more neutral. These include:

• Reducing the front tyre pressure
• Softening front springs or anti-roll bar
• Use softer front tyres
• Increase front down force (if aerodynamics fitted).

Reference: drivingfast.net

A video from the AMG Driving Academy Performance, an explanation about Understeer and Oversteer.

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Power Steering.

Rack and Pinion Type

Auto Gearhead: Power steering has hydraulic and electric types. Todays, hydraulic power steering is used on almost all car models. Three major components of the power steering is hydraulic vane pump, control valve and power cylinder. To increase driving comfort, most modern cars use wide tires sized and low pressure, which could increase the surface contact area of ​​wheel-to-street. As a result, the required power steering gets heavier.


Power steering can be lowered by lowering the gear ratio steering gear. However, this way will cause rotary motion of the steering wheel when the vehicle becomes more rounded, so it can not do a sharp turn.
To maintain steering and agility, at the same time make the power steering remains light, it takes a kind of steering aids. In other words, power steering, which has been widely used for large vehicles, are now also widely used for small passenger cars.

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Four-Stroke Engine Theory.

Four-stroke engine diagram

Auto Gearhead: In the previous article I have explained briefly about the four-stroke and two-stroke engines. Now here I will explain more detail how the four-stroke engine works in every steps

Intake Stroke.
This is the very first step in the chain of events that makes an engine run. This is also the most important step. In this step, mixed air and fuel entering the cylinder through the intake manifold. Incorrectly metered fuel entering the combustion chamber (cylinder) can severly hamper perfromance. Valve clearance is also a very important factor.
During the Intake Stroke, the piston is traveling downwards toward BDC (Bottom Dead Center). At the very same time, the intake lobe on the cam shaft is pushing up on the valve tappet  (valve lifter) which opens the intake valve. So at the very moment, the piston is traveling downward while the intake valve is opening. Now the piston is creating negative air pressure or vacuum. Naturally, we can't have negative air pressure, so a charge of gas and air comes rushing into the cylinder through the intake manifold. By the time the piston arrives at BDC, the air pressure inside the cylinder is equal to the air pressure outside the engine. Now, the piston is leaving the BDC position and the cam lobe is leaving the tappet, allowing the valve to close for the next step.

Compression Stroke.
The piston is now traveling back up the cylinder and the intake valve is closing. By the time the piston reaches TDC (Top Dead Center), it has squeezed, lets say, thirteen cubic inches of charge into less than one, it called compression ratio. If your rings and cylinder was is bad shape, most of that charge would have leaked around the rings, reducing the compression ratio.
How healthy your engine is how well the compression stroke works. For the engine to be very efficient, all of the air and fuel mixture must stay inside cylinder as long as possible. And for this to be possible, the compression rings, valves and cylinder must be in good shape to prevent the air and fuel mixture from leaking out.

Power Stroke (Combustion Stroke).
The Power Stroke is the most extreme stroke. It puts a great amount of pressure on the entire engine (rings, rod, crankshaft, valves and valve seats and piston.) While the piston was traveling towards TDC, ignition system was building up a charge and at around 12 degrees or less BTDC (Before Top Dead Center), the charge is released and arcs across the spark plug. By the time the piston arrives at TDC, the charge is violently exploded inside the engine, pushing the piston downward.

Flywheel

Exhaust Stroke.
Now that we had the power stroke and after that we need to get rid of it and start over. With the energy from power stroke, the piston reaches BDC and expained above and begins to travel upwards. While the piston is traveling upwards, the exhaust lobe on the cam gear comes in contact with the exahust tappet (valve lifter), opening the exhaust valve. The exhaust is pushed out of the cylinder as the piston travels upward. By the time the piston reaches TDC, the exhaust valve closes and intake valve opens again, and the cycle is started over.
Now with that said, you may wonder, "If there is only one power stroke for every 4 total strokes, then what makes the engine continue going without stopping, because I know that there is not enough energy created to run the engine for three more strokes before making another power stroke?"
What helps the engine continue through the other three stroke? Strokes  inertia. And that inertia can be found in the flywheel. That extra 15 pounds of weight on the crankshaft "pushes" the engine through the other three strokes.




Here is very good video of car engine working.

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Four-Stroke And Two-Stroke Internal Combustion Engines.

4 Stroke Engine

AutoGearhead: There are two types that an internal combustion engine to transform combustion into motive power. The two-stroke cycle and the four-stroke cycle engine. Two stroke engine produces power every crankshaft revolution, while a  four stroke engine produces power once every two revolutions. Older designs of small two stroke engines produced more pollution than four-stroke engines. However, modern two stroke designs, like the Vespa ET2 Injection utilise fuel-injection and are as clean as four strokes.


Large diesel two-stroke engines, as used in ships and locomotives, have always used fuel-injection and produce low emissions. One of the biggest internal combustion engines in the world, the Wärtsilä-Sulzer RTA96-C is a two-stroke; it is bigger than most two-storey houses, has pistons nearly 1 metre in diameter and is one of the most efficient mobile engines in existence.

The Wärtsilä-Sulzer RTA96-C

In theory, a four-stroke engine has to be larger than a two-stroke engine to produce an equivalent amount of power. Two-stroke engines are becoming less common in developed countries these days, mainly due to manufacturer reluctance to invest in reducing two-stroke emissions. Traditionally, two-stroke engines were reputed to need more maintenance (despite exceptions like the Ricardo Dolphin engine, and the Twingle engines of the Trojan car and the Puch 250 motorcycle). Even though the simplest two-stroke engines have fewer moving parts, they could wear out faster than four-stroke engines. However fuel-injected two-strokes achieve better engine lubrication, also cooling and reliability should improve considerably.

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Engine Warning Light Indicator Is Flashing, What Should I Do?

Engine Warning Light Indicator

AutoGearhead: When the Engine Warning Light Indicator (check engine indicator)  soon light illuminates on your dash, it means that electronic control unit on your car recognizes that there is an electronic system or sensor(s) failure. This indicates a problem, and the computer tries to compensate for that problem and keep the car running as close to normal as possible and it also known as "down-grade mode".

A Peugeot Planet System
Diagnostic Computer

Usually you will be able to feel a noticeable difference in the performance of your car. When this Engine Warning Light Indicator soon light flashes you should  check your car to your trusted repair workshop for a diagnosis and repair. But if it can't be done, imediately pull over safely tour car and shut the engine off.  Then call your trusted repair workshop  to towed your car. Flashes on Engine Warning Light Indicator  light is related to electronic system failure. To figure out about the problem, your trusted repair workshop uses a diagnostic computer.

Dear fellow readers, if you would like to share articles on this blog, that would be awesome. Thank You :)

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How does the engine work? | Requirements for the engine to work.

AutoGearhead: There are three requirements for the engine to work, the fuel system, the ignition system (petrol engine), and there is sufficient compression in the combustion chamber. On a basic automotive engine, either two-stroke or four-stroke, will work with combustion. combustion occurs due to a combination of fuel (gas or diesel) and air in its cylinder(s). Compression in the combustion chamber is generated by a moving piston to compress air and fuel inside the engine cylinder.

Fuel and compressed air inside the engine combustion chamber is ignited by a spark plugs attached to each cylinder walls and then burning air and fuel in the cylinder respectively. Spark plug wires attached to the receiving electrical current (high voltage electrical , about 12,000 volts) from the car electrical system. This electric current, or fire, is what started the combustion in the engine.

The strength of the combustion engine is what gives strength to the engine to move piston engine which connected to the engine crankshaft, which in turn is connected to the vehicle via a transmission and driveshaft and ultimately to the wheels of the vehicle.

Dear fellow readers, if you would like to share articles on this blog, that would be awesome. Thank You :)

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