What is Nitrous Oxide System or NOS and How Does It Make The Car Go So Fast?

If you've watched the new 'Fast & Furious' movie maybe you've noticed that just like the first one 'The Fast and the Furious' you keep seeing those blue NOS bottles. So what is Nitrous Oxide or NOS and how does it make the car go so fast?


What is Nitrous? Simply put, Nitrous (N2O) creates large amounts of horsepower by creating more oxygen in the engines combustion chamber while simultaneously introducing additional fuel. The added oxygen allows the additional fuel to burn which creates increased horsepower for short bursts of torque and speed.

In applications for vehicle racing, nitrous oxide (often referred to as just "nitrous") allows the engine to burn more fuel by providing more oxygen than air alone, resulting in a more powerful combustion. The gas itself is not flammable at a low pressure/temperature, but it delivers more oxygen than atmospheric air by breaking down at elevated temperatures. Therefore, it is often mixed with another fuel that is easier to deflagrate.
Nitrous oxide is stored as a compressed liquid; the evaporation and expansion of liquid nitrous oxide in the intake manifold causes a large drop in intake charge temperature, resulting in a denser charge, further allowing more air/fuel mixture to enter the cylinder. Nitrous oxide is sometimes injected into (or prior to) the intake manifold, whereas other systems directly inject right before the cylinder (direct port injection) to increase power.

The technique was used during World War II by Luftwaffe aircraft with the GM-1 system to boost the power output of aircraft engines. Originally meant to provide the Luftwaffe standard aircraft with superior high-altitude performance, technological considerations limited its use to extremely high altitudes. Accordingly, it was only used by specialized planes like high-altitude reconnaissance aircraft, high-speed bombers, and high-altitude interceptor aircraft.

One of the major problems of using nitrous oxide in a reciprocating engine is that it can produce enough power to damage or destroy the engine. Very large power increases are possible, and if the mechanical structure of the engine is not properly reinforced, the engine may be severely damaged or destroyed during this kind of operation. It is very important with nitrous oxide augmentation of internal combustion engines to maintain proper operating temperatures and fuel levels to prevent "preignition", or "detonation" (sometimes referred to as "knock"). Most problems that are associated with nitrous do not come from mechanical failure due to the power increases. Since nitrous allows a much denser charge into the cylinder it dramatically increases cylinder pressures. The increased pressure and temperature can cause problems such as melting the piston or valves. It may also crack or warp the piston or head and cause preignition due to uneven heating.

Automotive-grade liquid nitrous oxide differs slightly from medical-grade nitrous oxide. A small amount of sulfur dioxide (SO2) is added to prevent substance abuse.[29] Multiple washes through a base (such as sodium hydroxide) can remove this, decreasing the corrosive properties observed when SO2 is further oxidized during combustion into sulfuric acid, making emissions cleaner

Watch this interactive video and learn more than you ever thought you'd know about Nitrous Oxide.


Source: en.wikipedia.org + boxwrench.net

Dear fellow readers, if you would like to share articles on this blog, that would be awesome. Thank You :)

Read More

Flood Driving Safety Tips

Autogearhead: Flooded roadSome areas are more prone to flooding than others. This problem is set to increase in the UK with the onset of global warming.
Floods can occur when rivers burst their banks, after a period of heavy rainfall. Large volumes of water can cause flash-floods, or floods in urban areas where the sewers and drains can't cope and there is nowhere for the water to soak away.
As with all driving emergencies prevention is better than cure; in the case of flooding this means watching the weather forecasts before you set out on a journey, if flooding is widespread you might be better off cancelling trips that are not absolutely necessary.

If you are in a flood affected area consider moving your car to a place of safety when you first hear the warnings, but also be aware that if flooding has started moving your vehicle could pose a serious risk - never underestimate the dangers of flood water.

Eight things to think about when driving through floods.

1. Flash floods can come rapidly and unexpectedly. In the UK they are usually cause when rivers break their banks.
2. You may not have warning that a flash flood is approaching.
3.  Never attempt to drive through a flood that you couldn't walk through and be aware that water hides dips in the road. Worse still, there may be no road at all under the water. Flooding can wash away the entire road surface and a significant amount of ground beneath.
4. Slow down into waterJust six inches of water will reach the bottom of most passenger cars; this depth can cause loss of control or possible stalling as water is sucked into the exhaust or washes into the air intake.
5. If negotiating a flooded section of road, drive in the middle where the water will be at its shallowest.
6. Consider other drivers - pass through flooded sections one car at a time, don't drive through water against approaching vehicles.
7. Many cars will start to float in as little as one foot of water - this can be extremely dangerous because as the wheels lose grip, you lose control.
8. Two feet of flowing water can sweep away most vehicles — including large four-wheel drive cars. Don't try driving through fast-moving water, for example approaching a flooded bridge – your car could easily be swept away.

Negotiating floods

Driving at speed into water that is more than about 15 centimetres deep can have dramatic effects - it could almost feel like driving into a brick wall with loss of control. This is why it's especially important to watch your speed on roads where there might be unexpected patches of water (perhaps hidden by a bend or a dip in the road).

I caught the cars on the right on camera driving into about six centimetres of standing water at around 25mph - an instant after this picture was taken the red car lost control, luckily an accident was avoided. perhaps next time the driver might not be so lucky. In 15 minutes I saw several near misses at the same spot.

Use a low gearIf you intend to drive through a flooded section of road, your first task is to check the depth of the water. In normal vehicles you should never attempt to drive through water that is more than about 25 centimetres deep (or up to the centre of your wheels).

It's also worth checking where the air intake is on your engine. If water is sucked into the engine it will stall, but worse than this, it can cause severe damage that will require the engine to be stripped down in order to bring it back to life. Do not try to restart an engine that has sucked in water - the plugs or injectors should first be removed to allow the water to be expelled.

Some four-wheel-drive vehicles are equipped with high level air intakes allowing them to be driven through water several feet deep, however, you can say goodbye to your deep pile carpet and Gucci Sneakers if you attempt this! And as mentioned above - even 4x4 vehicles can be washed away in flowing water. If the water is fast-moving - even 30 centimetres depth of fast-moving water could wash your car off the road.

Where possible flooded roads are best negotiated by one vehicle at a time. wait for approaching vehicles to clear the water before you start to drive through.

Using first or second gear (L or 1 in an automatic) drive slowly to avoid creating a large 'bow wave' (a small wave can be helpful but too much and the water can wash back into the engine). Slipping the clutch and revving the engine will also help to keep the exhaust clear and keep the engine running if water splashes onto the electrics. In an automatic keep your foot on the gas in the lowest held gear and use the brake to control your speed (and hope for the best!).

Try your brakesIn some cases a stalled engine can result in water being sucked back through the exhaust into the cylinders - this can cause extensive and expensive damage. Do not change gear because this can also cause water to be sucked back through the exhaust (due to the change in engine speed and manifold depression).

Another potential cause of damage in floods is a cracked catalytic converter ('cat'). The 'cat' is part of the exhaust system and works at high temperatures; if it comes into contact with very cold water there is a possibility that the rapid contraction of the metal could crack the welded sides - OK if you have plenty of money to replace it!

If your wheels start to lose grip partway through a flooded section it could be that the car is trying to float. To counter this, open a door and allow some water into the car, this will weigh it down, enabling the tyres to grip again - it's probably best to get a passenger to do this so that you can continue revving your engine and slipping the clutch.

After driving through a flooded section of road or a ford across a river, test your brakes (whilst still driving slowly) and be prepared to drive them off by touching the brake pedal very lightly with your left foot (practice this on an empty stretch of road next time you go out driving to discover what very lightly means!).

If your car has been abandoned and has stood in deep water for a long period (an hour or more) it's worth getting a mechanic to look at it before you try and start it. Alternatively, if you know a little about engines and have the appropriate tools, remove the spark plugs (or injectors) and turn the engine over to expel any water from the cylinders before trying to start the engine.

Stay calm - stay safe!

Source: www.smartdriving.co.uk

Dear fellow readers, if you would like to share articles on this blog, that would be awesome. Thank You :)

Read More

Are hybrid cars slower than regular cars?

Do hybrid cars sacrifice speed for better fuel-efficiency?

AutoGearhead: In this article, John Fuller has explaination, are hybrid cars slower than regular cars? Part of America's love affair with cars is the desire for speed. Sure, we're attached to automobiles for several other reasons they get us comfortably from one point to the next, and we're even willing to sit through grueling traffic jams in them just to get to work or to the grocery store. But the rumble of the engine, the whine of the gears shifting upwards and the wind flowing through an open window is a common, iconic image. It's probably no coincidence that lots of American road movies include montages that attempt to convey that sort of feeling.

The rising popularity of hybrid cars within the auto industry, however, is changing that familiar perception. For one, most fuel-efficient vehicles don't necessarily rumble. In fact, most employ a function that allows the gasoline engine to stop running while sitting in traffic, coasting or even when the car is driving at lower speeds. Instead, a hybrid vehicle uses a quieter electric motor to conserve fuel and produce fewer emissions.

But despite being known for having good fuel efficiency and promoting eco-friendly driving, some have criticized hybrid vehicles for a variety of reasons. Some have questioned, for instance, the reliability of hybrid battery packs, claiming that they tend to be faulty and that they're expensive to replace. This is largely untrue, and nearly every car company producing a hybrid vehicle guarantees their battery pack for the life of the car.

Other critics, at least those that have grown accustomed to faster speeds associated with modern gasoline-powered cars, have noted that hybrid cars are typically slower than regular automobiles. The claim is that by focusing on fuel-efficiency and lower emissions, hybrid cars are sacrificing higher speeds and more power, slowing down their performance. Because this doesn't gel with the typical image of the fast American car, some drivers are a little turned off by this.

So, are hybrid cars really slower than regular cars? Why is this? And is that really the point for someone concerned about green driving?

While hybrids can reach relatively high speeds,
it's good acceleration that some models lack.

Hybrid Engine Performance

When most people buy a hybrid car, they usually do so with the understanding that there's going to be some kind of compromise between power and eco-friendly driving. The reason hybrid vehicles have become such a buzz topic and a go-to model for the auto industry recently is because of that compromise. As concerns increase over global warming, caused in part by carbon emissions resulting from vehicle fuel consumption, the power provided by a gasoline engine coupled with the fuel-saving qualities of an electric motor seem like the best possible combination.

But are fuel-efficient vehicles significantly slower than regular cars? To see if hybrid cars crawl on the road rather than zip along, we have to look into hybrid engine performance. Generally speaking, the engine in a hybrid car is almost always smaller than the engine in a comparable non-hybrid car. Smaller engines usually equal less horsepower and less torque. To get good fuel efficiency, hybrids operate from a standing start using only the electric motor, which typically provides much less horsepower and torque than a gasoline-powered engine. These two systems work together, however, to ensure hybrids can save fuel in the city and drive at faster speeds on the highway or even climb steep hills.

In short, hybrid cars won't be maxing out at 45 miles per hour (72 kilometers per hour) on the highway, endangering -- or at the very least, angering other drivers on the road, but they won't go quite as fast as most regular cars, either. While many all-electric vehicles have significantly lower top speeds and some are even a little bit unstable on the highway, hybrid cars get enough power from the gasoline engine to go as fast as 100 miles per hour (161 kilometers per hour). The real matter for hybrids is in acceleration. Since the smaller electric motors that most automakers use don't produce much horsepower, a relatively fast hybrid car can go from zero to 60 miles per hour (97 kilometers per hour) in about six seconds, while a more typical hybrid car's zero to 60 time hovers around the 10 second mark. For some people, that's a little too slow.

How are the carmakers responding? Well, some are developing faster hybrid cars with larger, V-6 engines and more powerful electric motors. Hybrid technology developer Frazer-Nash Research and Italian design firm Italdesign Giugiaro, for instance, worked together to build the Namir, a concept plug-in hybrid that can go from zero to 62 miles per hour (100 kilometers per hour) in 3.5 seconds and has a top speed of 187 miles per hour (301 kilometers per hour). The Namir's range is also 1,200 miles (1,931 kilometers), so anyone with the need for speed and an itch for green driving should look toward Italy. (John Fuller)

Sources:

• Aziz, Nick. "Frazer-Nash Namir by Giugiaro: World's fastest plug-in hybrid." LeftLaneNews.com. March 3, 2009. (April 27, 2009)
• Siler, Wes. "2010 Mercedes ML450 Hybrid: V8 Power With V6 Fuel Economy." Jalopnik.com. April 8, 2009. (April 27, 2009)
• Wald, Matthew L. "Hybrid Cars Burning Gas in the Drive for Power." The New York Times. July 17, 2005. (April 27, 2009

This video below, will describe about a Blue TEC hybrid features, an additional magneto-electric motor and a 7G-TRONIC seven-speed automatic transmission specially configured for the hybrid module, the necessary operating and control electronics, the transformer and a high-voltage lithium-ion battery.

During braking the electric motor acts as a generator and is able to recover kinetic energy by a process known as recuperation. During this process the electric motor works together seamlessly with the engine brake of the internal combustion engine and the conventional wheel brakes. The recuperated energy is stored by a compact but efficient lithium-ion battery in the engine compartment and retrieved when required. Major advantages over conventional nickel/metal hydride batteries include a higher energy density and greater electrical efficiency combined with more compact dimensions and a low battery weight. Thanks to space-saving installation in the engine compartment, the trunk capacity and generous interior dimensions remain unchanged. The hybrid module also has a convenient start-stop function.

Dear fellow readers, if you would like to share articles on this blog, that would be awesome. Thank You :)

Read More

Understanding Crash Test

Ford Fusion Crash Test

AutoGearhead: You know why cars have been getting safer? Its because of a well-established testing program. In this article, you'll know about automotive crash testing. You'll be amazed at how much thought and preparation goes into making sure that safe cars are on the roads. A crash test is a form of destructive testing usually performed in order to ensure safe design standards in crashworthiness and crash compatibility for various modes of transportation or related systems and components.


Types of Crash Test

• Frontal-impact tests: which is what most people initially think of when asked about a crash test. These are usually impacts upon a solid concrete wall at a specified speed, but can also be vehicle-vehicle tests. SUVs have been singled out in these tests for a while, due to the high ride-height that they often have.
• Offset tests: in which only part of the front of the car impacts with a barrier (vehicle). These are important, as impact forces (approximately) remain the same as with a frontal impact test, but a smaller fraction of the car is required to absorb all of the force. These tests are often realized by cars turning into oncoming traffic. This type of testing is done by the Insurance Institute for Highway Safety (IIHS), EuroNCAP and Australasian New Car Assessment Program (ANCAP).
• Side-impact tests: these forms of accidents have a very significant likelihood of fatality, as cars do not have a significant crumple zone to absorb the impact forces before an occupant is injured.
• Roll-over tests: which tests a car's ability (specifically the pillars holding the roof) to support itself in a dynamic impact. More recently dynamic rollover tests have been proposed as opposed to static crush testing.
• Roadside hardware crash tests: are used to ensure crash barriers and crash cushions will protect vehicle occupants from roadside hazards, and also to ensure that guard rails, sign posts, light poles and similar appurtenances do not pose an undue hazard to vehicle occupants.
• Old versus new: Often an old and big car against a small and new car, or two different generations of the same car model. These tests are performed to show the advancements in crashworthiness.
• Computer model: Because of the cost of full-scale crash tests, engineers often run many simulated crash tests using computer models to refine their vehicle or barrier designs before conducting live tests.

Crash Test Major providers

1. National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) in the United States, specifically the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard (FMVSS) and New Car Assessment Program (NCAP)
2. European New Car Assessment Programme (Euro NCAP)
3. Insurance Institute for Highway Safety (IIHS) in the United States
4. Australasian New Car Assessment Program (ANCAP)
5. Allgemeiner Deutscher Automobil-Club (ADAC) in Germany
6. Japan New Car Assessment Program (JNCAP)
7. China New Car Assessment Program (C-NCAP)

Reference: en.wikipedia.com

Euro NCAP, Peugeot 3008 Crash Test: Frontal Impact takes place at 64 Km/h, 40% of the width of the car striking a deformable barrier. In the side impact, a mobile deformable barrier impacts the driver's door at 50 km/h. In the pole test, the car tested is propelled sideways at 29km/h into a rigid pole.

Dear fellow readers, if you would like to share articles on this blog, that would be awesome. Thank You :)

Read More

Tips to Prepare Your Car for Winter Season

AutoGearhead: The changing of the seasons is a great time to check out what your car needs to gear up for cold, wet, winter driving conditions. During winter season, make sure your car is prepared well. Get your vehicle ready for winter and learning what it takes to drive safely through ice and snow could save your life. In this article, I'll tell you what your car needs to make it through winter and what to pack before you take a winter road trip.

To help ensure both you and your car stay out of harm’s way this winter, here are few simple tips could keep your car running all winter long.

Get your car serviced
The peace of mind a professional check could offer is well worth paying for. Therefore before the winter weather gets any worse, it’s a good idea to book your car into a garage and have it looked over by a mechanic. Fixing any mechanical problems now will hopefully reduce the risk you will break down at a later date. 

Lubricate door locks
Lubricate the door and trunk locks, as well as the hood locking mechanism so they won't freeze. It's also a good idea to lubricate hinges of the hood, doors and the trunk. Clean and lubricate the door rails if your vehicle has sliding doors.

Wipers, windshield washer fluid
Windshield wipers are very critical to winter driving; consider installing winter wipers. Make sure you replace summer washer fluid with special winter windshield washer fluid that won't freeze. If the washer jets don't spray properly, clean and adjust them. Good visibility is important - don't forget to clean your windshield and other windows from inside as well.

Battery Check
Mostly, there is no way to tell when the battery will decide to quit - sometimes it happens unexpectedly with no prior signs. However, if you feel that cranking speed is slower than before, the battery is probably close to its end. Have your battery tested, especially if it is more than 2-3 years old. A dead battery is one of the most common causes for a no-start during winter. Make sure the battery terminals are tight and not corroded. Corroded terminals will cause troubles.

Corroded terminals

Winter tires
Consider installing good-quality winter tires. Winter tires are specifically designed to improve traction on snow-covered or icy roads. Many dealerships will store your off-season tires if you purchase tires with them. There may be a small fee, but it's worth it for the convenience.
If you have alloy wheels, especially those with wide performance tires, consider purchasing winter tires pre-installed on steel rims instead of changing tires only - it's easy to damage alloy rims during winter and they are usually not repairable. There is less labour involved in changing tires that are already installed on the rims, so the charge is usually less. Winter tires need to be installed on all four wheels. Don't skimp on safety.
While winter tires have better traction on winter roads than all-season tires, they are not foolproof; drive carefully in winter conditions. Winter tires wear faster on dry roads in warm weather; don't forget to remove them when the winter season is over.

Pump up your winter tires
Don't forget to use your winter tires. To help lower the risk of skidding, check both your car's tire condition and pressure are correct before you drive. The current legal minimum tread depth is 1.6mm, but during the winter months it is a sensible idea to ensure your tyres have at least 3mm of tread depth.
This should also help increase your car's fuel efficiency and lower your petrol costs as you won’t have to put your foot down as hard on the accelerator.

Look after your lights
Dark mornings and dark evenings can make driving extremely dangerous. It is therefore crucial to ensure all your lights are clean and working properly. Always replace any broken bulbs immediately. If you don't, you will not only find it difficult to see the road clearly, you run the risk of not being seen by other drivers. Make sure you know where your front and back fog lights are.

Fill up your fuel
Before you hit the road, make sure you have sufficient fuel in the tank. This also will reduce condensation, making your vehicle easier to start on cold mornings.The last thing you want in the cold weather is to run out of petrol and be stuck on the side of the road somewhere.
It is also important to check you have the right level of oil in your car, and top it up if it gets too low.

Ensure you can see
Winter weather can make it more difficult to see clearly when you are driving. To help lower the risk of having an accident always make sure the windscreen is clean and clear, you have plenty of screenwash and your wiper blades are in good condition. If your windows are covered in frost, make sure you de-ice them before driving and don’t forget to clear your mirrors too.
When you're warming up your car, never leave your car unattended with the keys in the ignition and the doors unlocked. You only need to turn your back for a second and an opportunist thief could jump in and drive off.

Drive safely
Finally, make sure you take extra care on the roads. Allow more time for journeys and try to avoid rushing. Keep a safe distance from the car in front, and leave more time to brake and accelerate in wet or icy conditions. If there is snow and ice on the roads, use high gears to reduce the need for sudden deceleration or acceleration. And in the fog watch your speed as fog can give the impression of slow motion in oncoming traffic.
If you can it's a good idea to avoid driving in the dark and bad weather altogether as the number of accidents increase during these conditions. Wherever possible try to use major routes which have been gritted or salted. Be aware that not everyone on the road will be experienced in driving in these types of conditions so remain alert at all times.

A winter accident could leave you stuck on the side of the road. Packing your car with a few essentials will help keep you safe and ready for whatever conditions pop up on your trip. It is a sensible idea to put together an emergency winter survival kit so that you are prepared should you break down or have an accident. Remember to include a torch, warm clothes, blankets, food, ice scraper and a first aid kit. Here are tips for packing Your Car during Winter TripsIt's also important to always carry a fully charged mobile phone and the number of your car breakdown service with you so that you can call for help should you need it. A car charger for the phone is also a smart device to keep in the car.

Be prepared for an emergency. Store a kit of emergency items in your trunk.

1. Always store a snow/ice scraper and a shovel in your vehicle. A first aid kit is another must-have item to keep on hand. It should include all the usual items plus winter extras like flashlights, a fresh supply of batteries, blankets, matches, extra clothes, bottled water, and non-perishable snacks. Peanuts and granola bars are good protein- and carbohydrate-rich foods.
2. For rear-wheel drive vehicles, you might want to keep a small bag of sand in your trunk to create traction under the tires if you get stuck. The bulk of a vehicle's weight is the engine, in the front of the car. If the car is driven by it's rear wheels instead of its front wheels, the heavy front end and light back end makes the car prone to slide around an ice- or snow-covered road.

Tod Pritchard from ReadyWisconsin gives a quick lesson on what to include in a winter survival kit for your car.

References:
samarins.com, auto.howstuffworks.com, independent.co.uk

Dear fellow readers, if you would like to share articles on this blog, that would be awesome. Thank You :)

Read More

Winter Tire FAQs

Photo: Bridgestone.it

AutoGearhead: Gee... it's getting cold outside!! I will try to warm your room with this article :) In previous article, we have talk about winter driving safety tips, now we'll talk about winter tires. Winter tires have a conception of the aggressive tread that gives a better grip while throwing the snow and slush, which gives more stability during braking and better management of vehicles. The compound of winter tires is relatively mild.
The rubber of all-season tire begins to lose elasticity and harden at temperatures around -8 ° C to -10 ° C, reducing traction. At -15 ° C, this type of tires have lost its elasticity, while a winter tire will harden to about -40 ° C – it retains its elasticity for a very long time.

Taken from www.cars.about.com, Aaron Gold has shared information about winter tires frequently asked questions.

Q: What makes snow tires different from regular tires?

A: Snow tires (also known as winter tires) have tread patterns specifically designed to dig down and bite into snow and ice, plus they are made from softer rubber compounds that retain their flexibility in cold weather, allowing the tire to better conform to the surface of the road. (Regular tires tend to get hard and brittle in cold temperatures.) As a result, winter tires keep a better grip on snowy and icy surfaces than regular all-season or summer tires. Grip is critical. Not just to avoid getting stuck, but to ensure that the car can stop and steer. Life-saving safety technologies such as antilock brakes, electronic stability control and all-wheel-drive cannot do their jobs if the tires can't maintain their grip on the road surface.

Q: My car has all-season tires. Aren't those good enough?

A: Not really, no.  All-season (also known as all-weather) tires are designed to cope with all sorts of conditions, including dry roads and rain, but are not optimized for any one condition. They are generally made from harder materials that don't conform to the road surface as well in low temperatures. Think of all-season tires as sneakers and snow tires as heavy-duty snow boots. It is possible to walk down a snowy, icy sidewalk wearing sneakers -- but it's a lot easier and safer to do it with proper snow boots.

Q: Can I put snow tires on just the drive wheels of my car?

A: Putting just two snow tires on your car is a bad idea. If you have a front-wheel-drive car and put snow tires on the front only, the back wheels won't have anywhere near as much grip as the front wheels. This will make the car much more likely to spin out while braking or cornering. Likewise, if you put snow tires on the just back wheels of a rear-wheel-drive car, the wheels that do the steering won't grip as well as those that provide the power, so the car may not respond when the steering wheel is turned -- it will simply plow straight ahead. Always install snow tires as a full set of four.

Q: Can I leave my snow tires on all year?

A: You can, but it's not a good idea. Snow tires tend to be noisier, plus the softer compounds from which they are made means they will wear out faster, especially in warm weather. Wear is critical, because winter tires rely on their deep tread to dig into snow and ice. As soon as the snow is gone for good, remove your snow tires and reinstall your regular tires. The good news: Since you're savvy enough to use snow tires, you don't need to stick with the all-season tires that came with your car for the rest of the year -- you can choose a "summer" tire that will provide better handling, better traction in the rain, or a smoother, quieter ride.

Q: Unmounting one set of tires and mounting another at the beginning and end of winter is a pain. Is there an easier way?

A: Yes! Buy an extra set of wheels from a salvage yard and use those for your snow tires. The wheels don't have to be the exact same design, so long as they are the same diameter and have the same bolt pattern as your car's original wheels. If you've purchased aftermarket wheels, keep the stock wheels and use those for your snow tires. That way, when it comes time to change from summer tires to snow tires, all you have to do is have the wheels changed -- a quick and inexpensive job.

This video shows just how much difference they can make: up to 50% reduced braking distance on snow. Winter tyres are made with a higher percentage of natural rubber meaning they remain more supple at temperatures below 7º C.

By purchasing and installing winter tires, you have to remember the following:

1. Install four winter tires - To help maintain control and stability of the vehicle in icy conditions, always use a set of four winter tires.
2. Mixing tires with different models of internal structure and size affect the stability of the vehicle and should be avoided.
3. As a tire wears, traction is reduced by the snow. The tires are used near the wear indicators have reduced traction and should not be used on roads with snow or in severe snow conditions.
4. The correct air pressure for longer tread life, improves safety and reduces fuel consumption – all vital factors in saving energy and protecting the environment. Tire pressure decreases as the temperature drops, so be sure to check the pressure at least once a month when the tires are cold, preferably after the car has been out all night. (*)

Dear fellow readers, if you would like to share articles on this blog, that would be awesome. Thank You :)

Read More

Winter Driving Safety Tips

Driving in snowy conditions

Auto gearhead: In the northern hemisphere, winter has begun, including in US and Europe. In this article I will share important informations about driving tips in snowy and icy conditions. This winter driving tips is taken from the National Safety Council, New York State Department of Motor Vehicles, Washington State Government Information & Services.

The best advice for driving in bad winter weather is not to drive at all, if you can avoid it. Don't go out until the snow plows and sanding trucks have had a chance to do their work, and allow yourself extra time to reach your destination. If you must drive in snowy conditions, make sure your car is prepared, and that you know how to handle road conditions. It's helpful to practice winter driving techniques in a snowy, open parking lot, so you're familiar with how your car handles. Consult your owner's manual for tips specific to your vehicle.

Driving safely on icy roads

1. Decrease your speed and leave yourself plenty of room to stop. You should allow at least three times more space than usual between you and the car in front of you.
2. Brake gently to avoid skidding. If your wheels start to lock up, ease off the brake.
3. Turn on your lights to increase your visibility to other motorists.
4. Keep your lights and windshield clean.
5. Use low gears to keep traction, especially on hills.
6. Don't use cruise control or overdrive on icy roads.
7. Be especially careful on bridges, overpasses and infrequently traveled roads, which will freeze first. Even at temperatures above freezing, if the conditions are wet, you might encounter ice in shady areas or on exposed roadways like bridges.
8. Don't pass snow plows and sanding trucks. The drivers have limited visibility, and you're likely to find the road in front of them worse than the road behind.
9. Don't assume your vehicle can handle all conditions. Even four-wheel and front-wheel drive vehicles can encounter trouble on winter roads.

If your rear wheels skid

1. Take your foot off the accelerator.
2. Steer in the direction you want the front wheels to go. If your rear wheels are sliding left, steer left. If they're sliding right, steer right.
3. If your rear wheels start sliding the other way as you recover, ease the steering wheel toward that side. You might have to steer left and right a few times to get your vehicle completely under control.
4. If you have standard brakes, pump them gently.
5. If you have anti-lock brakes (ABS), do not pump the brakes. Apply steady pressure to the brakes. You will feel the brakes pulse this is normal.

If your front wheels skid

1. Take your foot off the gas and shift to neutral, but don't try to steer immediately.
2. As the wheels skid sideways, they will slow the vehicle and traction will return. As it does, steer in the direction you want to go. Then put the transmission in "drive" or release the clutch, and accelerate gently.

If you get stuck

1. Do not spin your wheels. This will only dig you in deeper.
2. Turn your wheels from side to side a few times to push snow out of the way.
3. Use a light touch on the gas, to ease your car out.
4. Use a shovel to clear snow away from the wheels and the underside of the car.
5. Pour sand, kitty litter, gravel or salt in the path of the wheels, to help get traction.
6. Try rocking the vehicle. (Check your owner's manual first it can damage the transmission on some vehicles). Shift from forward to reverse, and back again. Each time you're in gear, give a light touch on the gas until the vehicle gets going.

Sources:
National Safety Council, New York State Department of Motor Vehicles, Washington State Government Information & Services.

Winter driving tips from Audi driving instructor Harald Büttner. 

Dear fellow readers, if you would like to share articles on this blog, that would be awesome. Thank You :)

Read More

Understanding Oversteer.

Oversteer: the car makes the turn too sharp and gets into a spin.

Auto Gearhead: In previous article we have talk about understeer, in  this articel we gonna talk more about understeer. Understeer and oversteer are vehicle dynamics terms used to describe the sensitivity of a vehicle to steering. Simply put, oversteer is what occurs when a car turns (steers) by more than (over) the amount commanded by the driver. Automotive engineers define understeer and oversteer based on changes in steering angle associated with changes in lateral acceleration over a sequence of steady-state circular turning tests.



An article from drivingfast.net says, when you reach the limits of grip on a corner, two scenarios can result known as understeer or oversteer. Oversteer, like understeer, results from the car reaching the limits of traction on a corner. In this case, the rear tyres reach the limit of adhesion before the front. This leads to 'the back coming out'. The good thing about oversteer is that you normally go through the hedge backwards, thus preventing expensive repairs to the front of your vehicle. If you manage to performed sustained, controlled oversteer this is know as drifting.

Symptoms of oversteer It's unlikely you'll ever experience oversteer unless you're driving a car near the limits of grip. You can recognise oversteer if, the rear of the vehicle becomes unstable and 'light' due to lack of grip and the car starts to rotate so the driver is facing towards the inside of the corner

There are four major active causes of oversteer, but what you're likely to encounter depends on the car being driven, causes include:

1. Entering the corner too fast.
2. Accelerating into the corner, too early or too aggressively.
3. Braking into the corner or mid corner.
4. Lifting off the throttle mid-corner. This scenario is also known as:

• lift-off oversteer
• snap-oversteer
• trailing-throttle oversteer
• throttle off oversteer
• lift-throttle oversteer
• lift-off oversteer

Lift-off oversteer is a phenomenon which can occur when reducing the throttle mid corner. This will only happen when driving close to the limit so only experiment when on the track. Sporty front wheel drive drive cars can be especially prone to this due to the heavy front end and light rear. Reducing the throttle input results in a forward weight transfer, which increases the grip at the front tyres, but reduces levels at the rear. If this is performed during cornering, the combination of the heavy front end and the reduction of grip can cause the rear wheels to break traction and start to slide towards the outside of the corner.

Whatever the cause of oversteer it is important to keep the front wheels pointing in the direction you're hoping to go. If you fail to do this, the most likely result is a spin. This technique is known as counter-steering or applying opposite lock. You should apply enough steering lock to point the wheels in the direction of the slide as shown below. Too little and you're likely to spin as the back continues to come round, too much and the car will rapidly over-correct, often resulting in a spin in the opposite direction. The skill can only be mastered with plenty of practice and should become instinct if you're planning to drive fast on a track.

Applying corrective steering needs to be done rapidly to catch the back of the car before it slides to a point which may be difficult to control. Once the slide has been controlled and the back starts to fall back in line, it's also important to get the steering correction off quickly too, otherwise you might find your self with oversteer in the opposite direction due to the resulting pendulum effect.(*)

A video with Martin Brundle describing Oversteer and Understeer.

Read More

Understanding Understeer.

Understeer: The car does not turn enough and leaves the road.

Auto Gearhead: Understeer is vehicle dynamics terms used to describe the sensitivity of a vehicle to steering. Understeer is what occurs when a car steers less than, or 'under' the amount commanded by the driver.
Automotive engineers define understeer based on changes in steering angle associated with changes in lateral acceleration over a sequence of steady-state circular turning tests. Understeer occurs when traction is lost at the front wheels while cornering, forcing you wide on a bend despite applying the correct steering angle.

Avoiding understeer.
The potential harm of understeer is the car out off the road. But fortunately, this emergency situation is fairly easy to overcome. The point is to slow the vehicle so that traction can be returned.
To avoiding understeer you can drive as smooth as you can, don't enter corners flat out, and accelerate as you exit, do not add a round steering wheel or brake, reduce round the steering wheel until the tire gripping again. The las is do not brake in a corner. The only exception to this is if you are using trail braking (late braking). In some situations on the track, it may be possible to get a better time by leaving your braking to the very last minute, forcing you to maintain braking into the turn. If this is the case, ensure most of the braking effort has been carried out in a straight line, and progressively release the brakes as you approach the apex. The resulting forward weight transfer can reduce understeer and improve 'turn in', however, it can also make the car more prone to oversteer. This is an advanced technique and should only be used once you are very confident with your car, the track and the conditions.

Simple modifications to make a car less prone to understeer.
If you have a track car and find understeer a problem, you can complete some relatively easy modifications which can make the handling more neutral. These include:

• Reducing the front tyre pressure
• Softening front springs or anti-roll bar
• Use softer front tyres
• Increase front down force (if aerodynamics fitted).

Reference: drivingfast.net

A video from the AMG Driving Academy Performance, an explanation about Understeer and Oversteer.

Read More

Be a Smart Driver to Save Your Fuel.

AutoGearhead: Maybe you think over to find how to saves fuel. Its easy to saves fuel with this simple tips. Your style of driving habits could be costing you at the fuel pump. Following these driving tips will help you save money on fuel.

You might enjoy your time when it at a stop light, do not rev up your engine rpm. Do not drive aggressively out on the highway can lower your car's gas mileage up to 33 percent. Driving aggressively around town can pull down your vehicle's fuel efficiency by 5 percent. Drive like a grownup is better. Slowly accelerate after every stop sign and stop light. Go easy on the accelerator out on the highway.

Peugeot Cruise Control Stalk

Be a smooth driver. Abrupt stops aren't great for your car or your car's fuel efficiency. So anticipate stops whenever you can. Letting your car coast to a stop is a good way to improve your gas mileage. Using cruise control out on the highway will help you maintain a smooth, constant speed and may boost your gas mileage. Becoming a smoother driver will help to saves fuel.

It's important to follow the speed limit. Speeding is a very expensive way to drive. Driving above the speed limit may get you where you want to go in less time, but it also means wasteful of fuel. "Driving at excessive speeds is going to pull down your fuel efficiency," says Jim Kliesch, research associate at the American Council for an Energy-Efficient Economy and vehicle analyst.

And the faster you drive, the bigger the fuel-economy hit on your car. Driving 75 mph instead of 65 mph will lower your car's fuel economy by 10 percent. Driving 70 mph instead of 55 mph will lower your car's fuel economy by 17 percent. So stop treating speed limit signs as suggestions and slow down already. Obeying the speed limit is the safest and cheapest way to drive.

Remove any excess items from your car to make your car more lighter. Less weight means better mileage. Carrying an extra 100 pounds in the trunk of your car may cut your car's fuel economy by 1 percent to 2 percent. A loaded roof rack increases your car's air drag and can pull down your car's mileage by 5 percent. Avoid carrying items on your car's roof whenever possible.

Go easy on the air conditioning. Roll down your car's windows and let in the summer breeze. Using the gas-hogging air conditioning as sparingly as possible will give your car's fuel economy a real boost. Air conditioning can drag down your car's fuel economy by 10 percent to 20 percent. But on days when air conditioning is a must, first try cooling your car the old fashioned way, rolling down the windows, opening the vents, peeling back the sunroof. You'd be amazed how much hot air you can clear out of your car just by opening up for awhile.

Do not waste fuel with let your car's engine runs  idle, its fuel economy crashes down to zero miles per gallon. The larger your engine the more gas you wind up wasting while idling your car. Get with the times. Keep in mind, that modern vehicles don't need to warm up.

In the city with high traffic, avoid rush hour. Not only is stop-and-go traffic stressful and annoying, it's bad for your car's gas mileage. So avoid driving at rush hour whenever you can. Stagger your work hours so you can time your weekday commuting at less busy times of the day. You can save fuel and cut down on the wear and tear on your car by choosing the shortest route to your destination and combining short trips whenever possible. Several short trips taken from a cold start can use twice as much fuel as a longer, multistop trip of the same distance with a warm engine.

Important!!! Avoid resting your foot on the brake pedal or clutch pedal while driving. The slightest pressure on brake or clutch pedal could cause a drag that will require additional fuel.

Read More

Power Steering.

Rack and Pinion Type

Auto Gearhead: Power steering has hydraulic and electric types. Todays, hydraulic power steering is used on almost all car models. Three major components of the power steering is hydraulic vane pump, control valve and power cylinder. To increase driving comfort, most modern cars use wide tires sized and low pressure, which could increase the surface contact area of ​​wheel-to-street. As a result, the required power steering gets heavier.


Power steering can be lowered by lowering the gear ratio steering gear. However, this way will cause rotary motion of the steering wheel when the vehicle becomes more rounded, so it can not do a sharp turn.
To maintain steering and agility, at the same time make the power steering remains light, it takes a kind of steering aids. In other words, power steering, which has been widely used for large vehicles, are now also widely used for small passenger cars.

Read More

Four-Stroke Engine Theory.

Four-stroke engine diagram

Auto Gearhead: In the previous article I have explained briefly about the four-stroke and two-stroke engines. Now here I will explain more detail how the four-stroke engine works in every steps

Intake Stroke.
This is the very first step in the chain of events that makes an engine run. This is also the most important step. In this step, mixed air and fuel entering the cylinder through the intake manifold. Incorrectly metered fuel entering the combustion chamber (cylinder) can severly hamper perfromance. Valve clearance is also a very important factor.
During the Intake Stroke, the piston is traveling downwards toward BDC (Bottom Dead Center). At the very same time, the intake lobe on the cam shaft is pushing up on the valve tappet  (valve lifter) which opens the intake valve. So at the very moment, the piston is traveling downward while the intake valve is opening. Now the piston is creating negative air pressure or vacuum. Naturally, we can't have negative air pressure, so a charge of gas and air comes rushing into the cylinder through the intake manifold. By the time the piston arrives at BDC, the air pressure inside the cylinder is equal to the air pressure outside the engine. Now, the piston is leaving the BDC position and the cam lobe is leaving the tappet, allowing the valve to close for the next step.

Compression Stroke.
The piston is now traveling back up the cylinder and the intake valve is closing. By the time the piston reaches TDC (Top Dead Center), it has squeezed, lets say, thirteen cubic inches of charge into less than one, it called compression ratio. If your rings and cylinder was is bad shape, most of that charge would have leaked around the rings, reducing the compression ratio.
How healthy your engine is how well the compression stroke works. For the engine to be very efficient, all of the air and fuel mixture must stay inside cylinder as long as possible. And for this to be possible, the compression rings, valves and cylinder must be in good shape to prevent the air and fuel mixture from leaking out.

Power Stroke (Combustion Stroke).
The Power Stroke is the most extreme stroke. It puts a great amount of pressure on the entire engine (rings, rod, crankshaft, valves and valve seats and piston.) While the piston was traveling towards TDC, ignition system was building up a charge and at around 12 degrees or less BTDC (Before Top Dead Center), the charge is released and arcs across the spark plug. By the time the piston arrives at TDC, the charge is violently exploded inside the engine, pushing the piston downward.

Flywheel

Exhaust Stroke.
Now that we had the power stroke and after that we need to get rid of it and start over. With the energy from power stroke, the piston reaches BDC and expained above and begins to travel upwards. While the piston is traveling upwards, the exhaust lobe on the cam gear comes in contact with the exahust tappet (valve lifter), opening the exhaust valve. The exhaust is pushed out of the cylinder as the piston travels upward. By the time the piston reaches TDC, the exhaust valve closes and intake valve opens again, and the cycle is started over.
Now with that said, you may wonder, "If there is only one power stroke for every 4 total strokes, then what makes the engine continue going without stopping, because I know that there is not enough energy created to run the engine for three more strokes before making another power stroke?"
What helps the engine continue through the other three stroke? Strokes  inertia. And that inertia can be found in the flywheel. That extra 15 pounds of weight on the crankshaft "pushes" the engine through the other three strokes.




Here is very good video of car engine working.

Read More

Safe Nighttime Driving Tips.

Nighttime driving

AutoGearhead: Have you ever driving at night? What do you feel? Driving in the dark night is one of the most dangerous situations a driver faces. According to a recent study, thirty two percent of drivers say they have trouble seeing all or most of the time at night; twenty six percent claim they have trouble seeing signs when driving at night; twenty percent have difficulty seeing pedestrians, animals and turns in the road and twenty two percent report they cannot judge distance when driving at night. Statistics like these are cause for concern. Many people are turning to night vision glasses in the hope of overcoming these difficulties.

There are many roads out there with low or no lighting and then you also have to contend with the blinding lights coming at you from other drivers. The fatality rate at night, which is considered from 6 pm to 6 am, is three percent higher than the day time rate. Many people complain of eye strain, dry and tired eyes, inability to focus and blurred vision all that can be helped with night vision glasses. Many people feel that the most distracting issue when driving at night are the lights of oncoming traffic and the headlights from cars behind them. And if you have any vision problems to begin with like cataracts or near-sightedness, these problems can be intensified. Many eye professionals are recommending night vision glasses be used to help keep you safer.
Some tips from the professionals  for safe nighttime driving are recommending:

1. Make sure your headlights are clean, by keeping them clean you are ensuring that you will have better visibility when driving on roads with little or no lighting.
2. Do not wear sunglasses after dusk. These only make it more difficult to see at night.
3. Cleaning your windshield inside and outside. This will prevent smears that block your vision and make it more difficult to see.
4. Dim your instrument panel.  This will reduce brightness when you glance at them.
5. Drive slower than the speed limit. This is especially true on winding roads.
6. Wear a pair of night vision glasses that have anti-reflective coating on the lenses.
7. Adjust your rear view mirror to "night" setting. This will dim the glare of headlights from the cars behind you.

Night Vision Glasses For Safer Driving

This last bit of advice is very important as there are a lot of night vision glasses being sold with a yellow or amber tint that experts agree do not help you when driving at night and can actually hinder you by making dark areas appear even darker. The glasses that are recommended are equipped with an anti-reflective coating (on both sides of the lens) as they transmit more light. By transmitting more light this will help to improve your vision at night. The special coating will reduce the reflection from headlights, which as mentioned before, is the greatest problem for people when driving at night.

Dear fellow readers, if you would like to share articles on this blog, that would be awesome. Thank You :)

Read More

Engine Warning Light Indicator Is Flashing, What Should I Do?

Engine Warning Light Indicator

AutoGearhead: When the Engine Warning Light Indicator (check engine indicator)  soon light illuminates on your dash, it means that electronic control unit on your car recognizes that there is an electronic system or sensor(s) failure. This indicates a problem, and the computer tries to compensate for that problem and keep the car running as close to normal as possible and it also known as "down-grade mode".

A Peugeot Planet System
Diagnostic Computer

Usually you will be able to feel a noticeable difference in the performance of your car. When this Engine Warning Light Indicator soon light flashes you should  check your car to your trusted repair workshop for a diagnosis and repair. But if it can't be done, imediately pull over safely tour car and shut the engine off.  Then call your trusted repair workshop  to towed your car. Flashes on Engine Warning Light Indicator  light is related to electronic system failure. To figure out about the problem, your trusted repair workshop uses a diagnostic computer.

Dear fellow readers, if you would like to share articles on this blog, that would be awesome. Thank You :)

Read More

How does the engine work? | Requirements for the engine to work.

AutoGearhead: There are three requirements for the engine to work, the fuel system, the ignition system (petrol engine), and there is sufficient compression in the combustion chamber. On a basic automotive engine, either two-stroke or four-stroke, will work with combustion. combustion occurs due to a combination of fuel (gas or diesel) and air in its cylinder(s). Compression in the combustion chamber is generated by a moving piston to compress air and fuel inside the engine cylinder.

Fuel and compressed air inside the engine combustion chamber is ignited by a spark plugs attached to each cylinder walls and then burning air and fuel in the cylinder respectively. Spark plug wires attached to the receiving electrical current (high voltage electrical , about 12,000 volts) from the car electrical system. This electric current, or fire, is what started the combustion in the engine.

The strength of the combustion engine is what gives strength to the engine to move piston engine which connected to the engine crankshaft, which in turn is connected to the vehicle via a transmission and driveshaft and ultimately to the wheels of the vehicle.

Dear fellow readers, if you would like to share articles on this blog, that would be awesome. Thank You :)

Read More